Home
Sock Tutorial
Sock Yarn Reviews
Free Patterns
More Patterns
Tips/Techniques
Ask Darby
Sock Exchange
What's New
Contact Us
Comments
Privacy Policy

[?] Subscribe To
This Site

XML RSS
Add to Google
Add to My Yahoo!
Add to My MSN
Add to Newsgator
Subscribe with Bloglines
 

Talbot Sock Pattern
by Krista

Knitting-socks.com offers free patterns for your knitting enjoyment.

The Talbot Sock Pattern was designed with to combine a hand-dyed yarn with a solid.....but would compliment any 2 colors of yarn. This sock design follows my How to Knit Socks Class.

For more Free Patterns, click here

Talbot is written to fit an average to large foot.

The instructions are divided into the parts of the sock: Cast-on, Cuff/Leg, Heel, Turning the heel, Gusset or Ankle, Foot, Toe and a Seamless Finish.

The stitches used: Knit, Purl, K2tog, SSK, slip stitch, and YO.

Click here for any stitch refreshers

SUPPLIES NEEDED

  • Sock or Fingering Weight yarn (approx 380 - 420 yards combined) used Art Yarns Utramerino 4 and Schoeler Stahl Fortissimo Socka
  • 5 dpns - size US 1 (2.25 mm) to US 1.5 (2.5mm)
  • Locking or Slip Stitch Marker
  • Blunt tip Tapestry Needle
  • Measuring Tape
  • Crochet hook - recommend size 00/B/2.25 mm
  • Optional: Row Counter (highly recommended)

    Color A = Main Color/Solid or Chocolate Brown (as shown)

    Color B = Hand-dyed Yarn/Alternate or Pinky Coral (as shown)


    CAST-ON

    On one needle, using Color A, cast on 80 stitches loosely. I have used a long-tail cast-on, but any cast on you are comfortable with will work.

    Now divide the cast on stitches evenly between 3 needles. Either use the tail from the cast-on or a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of each row.


    CUFF

    Join Needles and Work in a 1 x 1 rib: *ktbl, p.... repeat from * till end of row for 12 rows. Add the fourth needle before completing the last row of ribbing, dividing the stitches evenly over all 4 needles or 20 stitches on each needle.


    LEG

    TIP: When doing fair-isle or color work, carry second color loosely to avoid any puckering or bunching. The goal is to leave the floats or strands of yarn loose enough to allow for the sock to be stretched.

    Row 1: *k1 B (Color B), k4 A (Color A)... repeat from * till end of row.
    Row 2: *k2 B, k1 A, k2 B.... repeat from * till end of row
    Row 3: *k3 B, k1 A, k1 B... repeat from * till end of row
    Row 4: *k2 B, k2 A, k1 B... repeat from * till end of row
    Row 5: *k4 A, k1 B... repeat from * till end of row
    Row 6: *k1 B, k4 A... repeat from * till end of row
    Row 7: *k2 B, k1 A, k2 B... repeat from * till end of row
    Row 8: *k3 B, k1 A, k1 B... repeat from * till end of row
    Row 9: *k2 B, k2 A, k1 B... repeat from * till end of row
    Row 10: *k4 A, k1 B... repeat from * till end of row

    Continue knitting Rows 1 thru 10 for 70 rows or until measurement from your cast-on edge to your desired length. I repeated the pattern 7 times.

    Cut Color B with a long enough tail to weave in ends.


    HEEL

    Once you have the desired length of leg....

    The heel is worked on half of the overall stitches, Using Color A, Slip the first stitch, knit 1 stitch and repeat (Slip 1, K1) for 40 stitches on one needle, going from four needles to three needles. Only working the stitches on the needle with 40 stitches to form the heel.

    Turn work,on wrong side, slip 1, purl the remaining stitches (on just that needle). While we are working on the heel it is IMPORTANT to always slip the first stitch of each row.....this will help us to form the gusset/ankle.

    Turn work, on right side, *Slip, knit ...repeat from * to end.

    Continue in this two-row repeat for a total of 33 rows.


    TURNING THE HEEL

    The following instructions will seem quirky, this is where the ounce of trust comes in...but if followed carefully will be fun....just take one step at a time, the important part is to end with the correct amount of stitches and produce a rounded heel.

    Row 1: Wrong side row: Purl (no need to slip the first stitch) to two stitches beyond the center or 22 stitches.

    then p2tog (purl 2 stitches together as one), p1

    Now TURN work to start next row.....and trust it will be OK.

    Row 2: Slip 1, K5, k2tog, k1 TURN

    Row 3: Slip 1, P6, p2tog, p1 TURN

    Continue in this pattern until you are left with 22 stitches on your needle for your turned heel.

    Check the Sock Tutorial for Row-by-Row instructions

    With Color A, pick up 20 stitches evenly along heel. Put your needle under both sides of the slipped stitch. Pick up the last stitch or two in the stitches in-between the heel and needle #2 to avoid having holes in your sock.

    If you would like to see photos or more instruction click here & scoll down If you have a larger ankle and would prefer more ease in the ankle/gusset add 1 to 2 additional stitches to the picked up stitches to the gusset or 22 stitches. Place a open style or clip style stitch marker or safety pin at the start of needle #2 to indicate beginning of pattern row.

    Join or add Color B and continue in pattern on needles #2 & #3. Now pick up 20 stitches evenly in the following Gusset Check pattern,

    *pick up 2 stitches in B, 2 stitches in A.... repeat from * to end of needle #4. (For a roomier ankle, pick up 22 stitches.)

    I like to start picking up the gusset stitches on this side, in the stitch between the leg and the heel to prevent a hole from forming and then using the slipped stitches for the remainder of the picked up stitches.

    Now you have stitches on 4 needles again. But... we need to position them slightly.

    From your short row heel needle, knit 11 or half of stitches onto the same needle that you just used to picked up the gusset stitches.

    Next, slip purlwise the remaining stitches onto the first needle where you originally picked up stitches or needle #1, which should also now have the same number of stitches as needle #4.

    You should be back to the 4 needle position, needles #1 & #4 hold the stitches for the bottom of the foot and needles #2 & #3 hold the stitches for the top of the foot.

    Continue to knit in the above pattern for needle #1 where you left off from needle #4(as *k2 B, k2 A....repeat till end of needle) WHILE AT THE SAME TIME beginning the gusset decreases in the last 3 stitches, K2tog, k1 (while remaining in Check pattern).

    Row 1 has now been completed of the Gusset Check Pattern listed below.

    Continue in Talbot Houndstooth pattern for needles #2 & #3. Starting with Row 2(see below) while decreasing for Gusset on needle #4 in the first 3 stitches by k1, ssk (in color pattern) and continue in pattern for the remainder of the stitches on needle #4.

    Gusset check Pattern for Needles #4 & #1

    Row 1: *k2 B, k2 A...repeat from * till end
    Row 2: *k2 B, k2 A...repeat from * till end
    Row 3: *k2 A, k2 B...repeat from * till end
    Row 4: *k2 A, k2 B...repeat from * till end

    Gusset decreases will be done in the last 3 stitches of needle #1 and the first 3 stitches of needle # 4 EVERY OTHER ROW. Continue until there are 20 stitches on all 4 needles, while keeping in pattern.

    TIPGive the first stitch on needle #1 an extra tug to insure no gaps form along the bottom of the foot.


    FOOT

    Knit in pattern until foot measures between 6" - 8" from heel depending on your foot size or 2" less than total foot length. Check out Tips & Techniques for shoe size measurements.


    TOE

    Using Color A only, we will begin to decrease the sides between the top and the bottom of the foot forming the toe.

    Row 1
    Needle #1: knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1Needle #2: knit 1, ssk, knit remaining stitchesNeedle #3: knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1Needle #4: knit 1, ssk, knit remaining stitches

    Row 2
    Knit even across all 4 needles.

    Continue until all needles have 6 stitches on each of them.

    Combine stitches on needle #4 and #1 by knitting across needle #1 leaving a total of 12 stitches on one needle.

    Slip purlwise the stitches from needle #2 to needle #3 leavin a total of 12 stitches on one needle.

    Now all stitches should be evenly on two needles.

    For a Seamless Toe, I recommend the Kitchener stitch to close the toe opening.

    For detailed instructions and pictures click this link and scroll to the bottom of the page.


    To get the latest Free Sock Patterns and Sock Yarn Reviews, subscribe to The Sock Exchange below:

    Enter your E-mail Address
    Enter your First Name
    Then

    Don't worry -- your e-mail address is totally secure.
    I promise to use it only to send you The Sock Exchange.

    More Free Sock Patterns


    Return to Knitting-Socks Home Page


    footer for Talbot Sock Pattern page