Tips & Techniques

CAST-ONS

• If you tend to cast-on tightly, cast-on using two needles held parallel, removing one of them after you have finished the cast-on. This will produce an elastic edge, which is extremely important for a sock cuff.
• When knitting socks top down: Use the tail from your cast-on as a marker indicating the beginning of the round.
• A Flexible Cast-on is extremely important to ensure socks stay up and do not bind or fall down on the leg. The long-tail, double knit or old Norwegian cast-on's give the most flexibility

Refresher on Cast-ons

DPN (double pointed needles)

Knit in the Round using Double Pointed Needles
• Cast-On all stitches on a single needle before dividing it to three. Then divide evenly between three(3) needles. This will reduce the possibility of twisting stitches.
• To close the circle, knit the first stitch with the working yarn from the last stitch. Keep your last and first needle as close together as possible. Make sure your first knitted stitch (you should mark this)is close to the last needle so that you do not end up with a gap in the knitting. Once the three needles are joined, add the 4th or working needle.
• The first row is always the hardest, those needles seem to take on a life all of there own. Just bite your lip and work thru it.....row 2, 3 & 4 will pass quickly. I promise!
• Continue to work rounds in this way, using your empty needles to knit off and keeping the stitches evenly divided. Hold the two working needles as usual, and drop the others to the back of the work when not in use.
• Ladders can be prevented by moving stitches from three needles to four needles, once the ribbing is completed. Carrying your your stitches on four needles puts less strain where the needles meet and will usually eliminate ladders entirely.

To Achieve a Smoother Join
• Another method is to join your needles together by slipping two stitches.....once you have determined that all stitches are straight and not twisted and ready to join...
• Slip the stitch (without the tail) onto the needle that has the tail.
• Then slip the stitch that has the tail or now the second stitch, over the newly slipped stitch and onto the first needle. Essentially, these stitches just swapped places and created a smooth join.

FOOT

• How to insure a comfortable foot....Give stitches at the end of needle #4 and the begining of needle #1 an extra tug to insure a more comfortable and durable foot.
• Do you have sensitive feet? If the inside of the foot of your knitted sock feels too rough on your feet, try this trick....once gusset stitches have been added, purl every row ONLY on needles #1 & #4, which will put the stockinette side against the sole of your foot and should prove to be softer.
• How to get the right length for my foot?...Find your shoe size on the Sock Length Chart below (scroll down) and start the Toe shaping (decreases) 2 - 2.5 inches prior to the actual shoe length.

GUSSET/ANKLE

• How to prevent holes at Gusset join.... by picking up of the gusset stitches in the stitch next to the top of foot stitch or in-between the heel stitches and the top of foot stitch (the last stitch on the first side of picking up gusset stitches and the first stitch on the second side of picking up the gusset stitches.
• For larger ankles.... pick up two extra stitches than prescribed on each side of the gusset to produce a roomier ankle and a more comfortable fit.

HEEL

• How to make a more durable heel.... on RS row *Slip 1, Knit 1 repeat from * till end of row. On WS row, *Slip 1 and Purl remaining stitches.
• A Reversible Heel Flap can be a fun change of pace. On RS row, *Slip 1 pwise with yarn in front, K1 repeat from * till end of row. On WS row, Slip 1, purlwise with yarn in back, purl to end.
• For an extra durable heel, incorporate a reinforcing thread/yarn while making the heel flap and short rows. This will increase the life of your socks.

KITCHENER STITCH

Kitchener Stitch provides a seamless toe and is the most comfortable closure. Other Toe Options are available below.The directions will feel a little quirky but with some trust and patience you are moments away from your finished sock.
• Cut your yarn leaving about 18" for you to work with. Thread your tapestry needle with the end of the yarn.
• Position your sock so the working yarn is in the back and slide the stitches to the end of the right side of the needle.
• We will begin to weave the yarn thru our stitches either KNITWISE (as if to knit) or PURLWISE (as if to purl)
• Insert the needle purlwise into the first stitch on the front needle and pull the yarn thru.
• Insert the needle knitwise into the first stitch on the back needle and pull the yarn thru.
• The first two stitches were our set up stitches, the following stitches we will repeat till the end.
• Insert the needle knitwise into the first stitch on the front needle and at the same time slip the stitch off the needle Insert the needle purlwise into the first stitch on the front needle and pull the yarn thru.
• Insert the needle purlwise into the first stitch on the back needle and at the same time slip the stitch off the needle Insert the needle knitwise into the first stitch on the back needle and pull the yarn thru.
• Repeat the last 4 lines until all stitches have slipped off the needle.

To see instructions with pictures, click here and scroll down

Ask Darby provides the Kitchener Stitch cheer & video in The Sock Exchange

REINFORCING YARN/THREAD

• When should I use reinforcing yarn? When the yarn you are using does not have polyamid or nylon in the fiber contenet. Especially important when using 100% Merino Wool.
• Where should I use reinforcing yarn? Anywhere that gets increased wear in the foot construction, typically it is used in the heel and toe area.

SSS (Second Sock Syndrome)

• Try knitting two socks at the same. Get an extra set of dpn needles: Cast on and knit the cuff on the first set of needles. Then caston and knit the cuff of the second sock on the second set of needles. Then knit the leg on each sock, and so on until the you have two completed socks. This practice ensures the same length of leg and foot....and voila...the perfect pair!
• If you using a larger skein/hank that produces a pair of socks, instead of buying two skeins, ask your LYS to split the skein/hank in half for you....most are happy to accomodate. Or if you really like the pattern buy two skeins for two pair.

SHORT ROWS

• Just prior to turning the short row you will begin to notice an obvious gap from row to row.....which is our signal that its time to do a k2tog or p2tog, knit one more stitch then TURN.

SOCK LENGTH

WHAT SIZE SOCK SHOULD YOU KNIT?
Shoe Size to Sock Length Conversion Chart. Total length of sock (including toe) based on US Shoe sizes.

Womens

Mens

Infants & Childrens

TOE FINISHING OPTIONS

• Kitchener Stitch provides a seamless toe. The seamless toe is the most comfortable of all closures and closely resembles those of commercially made socks. Once again....the directions will feel a little quirky but with some trust and patience you are moments away from your finished sock. Highly recommended. See detailed directions above.
• Three-Needle Bind-Off. Similar to the set up of the kitchener stitch, place the stitches on two needles, held parallel. Hold the knitting so the right sides face each other (or hold inside out). Knit a stitch from each needle as one, Knit another stich as one then bind-off or slip first stich over second stitch. Repeat until all stitches are bound off.
• Tie Toe.Cut the yarn leaving a 12" tail and thread on finishing or tapestry needle. Run the needle through all the stitches, pull out the needles. Pull the yarn tight and fasten on the wrong side of the sock.

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